Paris fashion plays it safe

by Carly Jane Lock

Article published on the 2009-10-09 Latest update 2009-10-12 13:38 TU

Tim Hamilton collection
(Photo: Carly Jane Lock)

Much is expected of the Paris Fashion Week, so designers generally fail to disappoint. This season's style jamboree was no exception. But underneath the Gallic glitz on offer for next spring, designers are playing it safer then ever.

This year's nine-day fashion extravaganza (30 September-8 October) featured 94 runway shows from some of the industry's biggest names. Shows by Dame Vivienne Westwood, John Galliano, Chanel and Martin Margiela were some of this season's biggest draws.

Vivienne Westwood collection
(Photo: Carly Jane Lock)

Though there were more catwalks scheduled in Paris than in Milan, New York or London this year, no fewer than twelve fashion houses, including Christian Lacroix, Véronique Branquinho and Jeremy Scott, deserted Paris this season.

Amongst the most anticipated spring/summer 2010 collections were debuts by new designers at the helms of established Parisian fashion houses: Peter Copping for Nina Ricci and Marco Zanini for Rochas

The fashion press slammed Lindsay Lohan and Estrella Archs for Emanuel Ungaro, whose collection was deemed unworthy of a slot on the official Paris calendar.

Also stepping into the breach this season were US designer Tim Hamilton, Giles Deacon who claimed the ANDAM award - French fashion's 2009 'grand prix' - and the Romanian designer Ingrid Vlasov.

The return of London-based French designer Roland Mouret who made his debut in the French capital last season also confirmed Paris' unrelenting appeal.

"I really wanted to come back to my country and explore my creative potential in France,” he said, misty-eyed. “Paris is an amazing platform. I've done New York and London. It's like the triptych of my life.”

Marithé and François Girbaud collection
(Photo: Carly Jane Lock)

Paris may lack the edgy feel of London’s Fashion Week or the business-savvy vibe of New York, where fashion is a serious commercial art, but designers who want to work their way up the ladder know that showing their collections in Paris is still the surest way to gain credibility.

Over the last few seasons, the French capital has welcomed designers from all four corners of the globe.

Gareth Pugh, Manish Arora, Rick Owens and Elie Saab have all brought fresh perspectives to the scene, and their presence is encouraging French fashion houses to break free from the yoke of their superiority complexes, and their reputation for straight-laced chic.

Indian designer Manish Arora hit out at fashion super-brands that he feels encourage people to spend their money on clone-like attire.

Manish Arora collection
(Photo: Carly Jane Lock)

"It's time for independent designers to come out of the woodwork,” he said. “People need more individualistic clothes instead of wearing labels which are all the same."

There were flashes of audacity at shows by Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, Louis Vuitton or Comme des Garcons.

On the whole, though, clothes were of a more commercial bent this season.

Sellable iconic pieces such as the trench coat were central to collections by Christian Dior, Dries Van Noten and Lie Sang Bong. Jean-Paul Gaultier returned to well-trod territory by bringing back the conical bra, which he designed 20 years ago.

Viktor & Rolf, Vivienne Westwood and Roland Mouret all toed the credit crunch-friendly line. The innovative Dutch duo cut back by hacking away at their tulle dresses with a chainsaw.

DIY was a key element of Vivienne Westwood's hair-raising spring fashion with a conscience. And the RM by Roland Mouret line provided further proof of a developing trend for practical, versatile clothing. His pièces de résistance for are the TTD, a top, tunic and dress all rolled into one, or the carré, a piece that can be worn as a top or a skirt.

Louis Vuitton, Alexander McQueen and Roland Mouret all made webcasts of their fashion shows, moving Paris into the realm of hi-tech.

“I want to break new ground in the way the public sees and understands fashion,” McQueen said, “I want to generate something for a wider audience”.

“Really, what I’m aiming for is world domination", he added.

Ebony Bones performing at Jean-Charles de Castelbajac's 'Pirates! Parrots! and Paradise!' show
(Photo: Carly Jane Lock)

This season's Paris Fashion Week front-row crew included a smattering of stars from the United States, including Prince, Bruce Willis, Rihanna and Dita Von Teese, along with the British singer Lily Allen, who performed in a custom-built Chanel barn at the Grand Palais museum.

French celebrities Catherine Deneuve, Charlotte Gainsbourg and singer Zazie represented the home side.