Jazz in Morocco an unusual mix

by Daniel Brown

Article published on the 2009-10-30 Latest update 2009-10-30 17:09 TU

The former Moroccan capital Fez hosted the Jazz in Riad Festival for the sixth year running in October. This kaleidoscope of sounds going under the name “jazz” featured artists like Annick Tangorra, Rhoda Scott and Olivier Temine. Set in the stunning gardens of the Batha Museum, under a massive oak tree, they introduced a jazz language that is unfamiliar to the ears of the local Fassi people. But, if most of the concerts took place in this riad, some of the music did spill onto the streets as well…

Fez might seem an unlikely place for an international jazz festival. But in this 19th century riad, under a massive oak tree, it all seemed to gell harmoniously. Riad, by the way, refers to traditional Moroccan palaces with an interior gardens that are renowned in Marrakesh and this former capital.

That’s where most of the concerts took place, though the music did spill out onto the streets as well. This was thanks to the ten-man group Zéphyrologie. Dominated by the wind instruments that gave the band its name, the musicians meandered through the streets of the Fez medina each day, surprising, then delighting the local Fassis.

"I just love it,” enthused the mature student Mouncef Oudghiri. “In Moroccan tradition and Fassi culture, you have some religious processions with drums and clarinets. You also have other processions with Gnawas, so we are used to this kind of parade. But the fact that we have new music to us, and new instruments is something fantastic. It's very good for the population to see some new kind of dance and music."

Some locals saw the challenges such a gathering faces: "Fassi people are not used to this jazz festival,” said one woman. “In general, people don't know that much about it. Let's be frank. (Our culture) is too far from jazz. But bridges....they can be built!"

Singer Annick Tangorra.
(Photo: artist)

Saxophonist Olivier Temime, whose grandmother came from Casablanca, says the music may be new to many here. But he sees some clear similarities between his jazz and Moroccan rhythms.

“You find links with the popular rhythms here, for example (illustrates with a scat): that’s the 6/8 rhythms that are both in classic jazz and Moroccan Gnawa music. And jazzmen like Art Blakey and Evan Jones drew inspiration here for their own music.”

The energetic voice of Atef, brought a commercial ingredient to the regal gardens of the Bat’ha that wasn’t to everyone’s taste. It did not stop this possessor of an androgynous voice from enthusing over the impact this festival could have on local culture: “A lot of North African people listen to jazz, it’s very interesting because their jazz is less mental, it’s more about feelings. I liked it. It was more warm and welcoming...just like they are! It’s a very spiritual city. People are relaxed for a city of over two million people. ”

Jazz in Riad was also the first of a long series of events marking the 100th anniversary of the birth of Django Rheinhardt. This groundbreaking guitarist was born in January 1910, and the international trophy award Django d’Or decided to launch the year of commemoration at the festival in this former Moroccan capital.

Rhonda Scott
(Photo: artist)

As part of the event, organisers created a Young Talents space. This featured a concert by drummers Camille Cintas and Gérald Portocallis, as well as pianist Laurent Dare. The trio created a dazzling 20 minute piece that belied their youth. It was one of the highlights of the three days.

“It the ambiance, the atmosphere here,” explained veteran jazz organist Rhoda Scott. “You immediately feel inspired and creative because it’s just different enough for your senses to be awakened. And it’s warm enough for you to feel free and be able to do things.”

Only time will tell if the huge investment Morocco is putting into this event will pay dividends…by which I mean that local musicians will start to integrate jazz into their local music idioms. Artistic director Jean-Claude Cintas had little time to prepare the annual gathering and, should he be around next year, he hopes to be able to recruit more than his intimate circle of musician friends.

Quiz of the week   Which French town is the group Zéphyrologie from? The answer is in the programme.   You are invited to listen to it and send your answers to [e-mail].