African Cup of Nations - blog

Rainy days in Lubango

by Paul Myers

Article published on the 2010-01-20 Latest update 2010-01-20 12:18 TU

Boys play football in the streets of Lubango.
Photo: Reuters

When I told the taxi driver in Luanda that I was soon to be off for Lubango, he said: "It rains a lot there."

I thought he was being sniffy and metropolitan.

But after two days in Lubango, I realise he was just telling it like it is.

The taxi driver was oh so right. It has rained a lot. In fact it has bucketed down.

In contrast to the blazing heat of Benguela and Luanda, high-altitude Lubango is a veritable rain fest.

The Mozambicans who are in town to play Nigeria have been complaining that it’s too cold. Indeed when I went to have a chat with them at their savannah-style hotel just outside Lubango, it was thrashing it down.

The rain was beating down on the rooves of their chalets. Fortunately, during a lull, I managed to speak to the Mozambican skipper Tico Tico.

He’s quitting international football once Mozambique get knocked out. At 36, he says, it’s time for a younger man to emerge. It’s not going to happen while he’s around, so he’s standing back.

"There are a few players for whom you can see it’s one CAN too many," I said. "It’s statesmanlike to stand back rather than being pushed… or were you pushed?"

"No, no," Tico Tico assured me. "They [the team coaches] brought me back."

Well, if Mozambique do beat Nigeria on Wednesday, Tico Tico’s  international days won’t be quite done.

The Nigerians of course will be doing their best to consign him and his gang to the out tray.

The Bambas – as the Mozambicans are nicknamed – consider that the Nigerians have an advantage because the wet weather suits all their Europe-based players.

You’ve got to see their point. I’ve come to Angola with an array of short-sleeved shirts and summery plimsoles.

One pair got thoroughly sodden during the splash up to the Mozambicans’ hotel. Rather than risking my dry pair, I decided to put on my flip-flops. What an inspired idea. There’s nothing worse than having soggy socks and shoes.

And I certainly fit in, as the locals go round in flip-flops too.

At the end of a long day, I got back to the hotel and decided to have a shower before going to bed.

No chance. The hotel had run out of water.