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Special report
Meet Me in Saint-Louis!
Senegal's secret music hotspot
Saint-Louis
23/01/2009 -
In December, the river city of Saint-Louis comes alive with music. Its sand-covered streets vibrate to the sound of fanals (night-time processions recounting Saint-Louis's history via music, costumes and giant paper lanterns), sabars (the wild tom-toms that pound out to mark weddings and other family celebrations) and countless "cafés-concerts", all turning the volume of their speakers up to max in the hope of attracting customers. Saint-Louis is, of course, best known for its annual jazz festival which regularly attracts big-name stars, but the old colonial city actually offers a wide range of musical attractions, ranging from rap, pop, reggae and m’balax to traditional music and even French 'chanson.'
L’Orchestre Teranga are an eight-strong band of local musicians who do an excellent cover of Christophe's old 'chanson' favourite Aline. "Everyone's been through Saint-Louis," explains Teranga's guitarist, Samba Diarra, "The Portuguese, the Dutch, the French, the British and the Americans… And, naturally enough, the local music scene has become one big melting-pot, reflecting those successive waves of fusion." Teranga, who play a vibrant mix of m’balax and Afro-jazz, have sold a thousand copies of their demo tape to date, but sadly have no "official" album to their name. However, thanks to their frequent live appearances and the hypnotic voice of lead singer Assan (an almost exact copy of Ismaël Lô's), Teranga have built up a serious following of fans in Saint-Louis. Times are hard, though. Eight musicians playing up on stage means dividing the pay cheque eight ways and forking out more in terms of expenses and overheads. "We have to pay electricity bills for rehearsals and cover all our transport costs," says Assan, "And we do all our own promotion so that means paying for posters and stuff, too."
This is a problem Mama Sadio knows all too well. Mama, originally from Dakar, has experienced her own difficulties in finding rehearsal space, sponsors and even musicians to accompany her traditional Mandingo songs. But Mala is now receiving encouragement and support from the French Cultural Institute, learning French and has already performed one concert in northern France. Back in Saint-Louis, Mama - like fellow singers and musicians in Saint-Louis - is limited to performing in local bars and hotels, although she does occasionally get to play at the Institute's open-air stage set against a backdrop of bougainvillea. The dynamic young singer, full of energy and verve, is a great believer in the future. One day, she grins, she will go far. And who knows? Maybe even make an album. "Inch Allah!"
No place like home
The Saint-Louis Soldiers are one of the rare local groups to have achieved album status so far. These four young rappers, who won a Yakaar* award in 2007, went on to sign a recording deal with Optimiste Productions, a label based in Dakar. The foursome grew up together in the bustling, working-class neighbourhood of Sor and it was here, amidst the bleating of goats, that they first started listening to foreign rappers such as Kool Shen, 2Pac and Afrika Bambaataa. The Saint-Louis Soldiers went on to develop their own distinctive flow, showing off their beatbox prowess and vocal synchronisation at venues such as Le Flamingo, a bar that backs onto the Faidherbe Bridge and offers stunning views across the Senegal River. In this setting, it is easy to understand the group's attachment to their home town. And why this band of hip-hop "soldiers" chose to take their name from the old military academy set up here by the French in 1922.
This same deep-seated attachment to Saint-Louis is evident in the work of kora-player Ablaye Cissokho. "I'm actually from Kolda, in southern Senegal," Cissokho says, "but I immediately fell in love with this city, its little island and the local inhabitants who are famous for their hospitality." The traditional 'griot' often celebrates the Senegal River in his songs, admitting that "I've written practically all my songs sitting with my feet dipped in its waters." Cissokho, who arrived in Saint-Louis in 1985 and gained notoriety performing at the jazz festival, is the local star who has fared the best abroad. The kora virtuoso has recorded three albums to date and has toured extensively across Europe. Cissokho expresses concern about the future of his fellow musicians in Saint-Louis, however. He says that he regularly urges his "colleagues" to band together, demand better performance fees and fight against the exploitative contracts imposed by some venue owners. "The way to gain respect and recognition is to stand up for your rights and not accept any old thing!" Cissokho insists.
Saint-Louis Soldiers Hip Hop Classe (Optimiste Productions) 2007
Fleur de la Haye
Translation : Julie Street
